København’s other home crags… and Denmark’s finest! Jim and Steven (in the process of joining) made a last minute trip here to take advantage of the very last days of the Nordic Summer…
An overnight ferry (everyone else had blankets) from Køge took 5.5 hours and got us to Rønne at 06:00. A quick coffee and then straight to Vang for some introductory work and then some sport leading at the Vangbruddet (quarry). A good start venue with a short walk in. We got 8 leads in each (sport) and then top roped a couple of the wetter routes, all in the morning.
A stop for lunch then checked out some of the venues at Hammerkysten, spending the afternoon bouldering at Ornebjergkysten. Again, an easy walk in and lots to go at… we even new routed a few and have sent them in to the guidebook author.
First night we camped at Sandvig. Reasonable.
Day two we visited Hammerbruddet (quarry) and climbed on the Chip og Chap Vaeggen. Limited climbing here as lots of it is falling down. Protection spaced and the rock not too reliable… (Though we did get some trad leading in here). Saying that, it was a very easy walk in and a highly recommended, tourist hut site (all free) available to camp… More below.
We then visited Moselokken Stenbrud, got some more (sport) leads in before top roping some of the harder stuff. A great venue with enough to take up the whole afternoon. We checked out El Kaptajnen buttress but steered clear of rockfall at the left hand end. It is worth mentioning that this quarry is still in use and only available to climbers at the weekend. Make yourself aware of the blast siren!
A quick stop at Allinge for food and beer then straight back to Hammerbruddet. Park up available by the huts. We cannot recommend this place enough. One big open hut with benches and a large fire pit. As this is Scandinavia, wood is supplied. Two smaller sleeping shelters (6 persons each comfortably) clean, waterproof and comfortable. Outdoor fire pit also available and all free. Any future overnight visit should consider this as a good accommodation option.
Early return (Goodbye Summer, hello rain) by ferry to Ystad in Sweden (ferry company let us change route and sailing date for free and refunded the difference) and then a quick drive over the bridge back home. Two great days! Enjoy the pictures, Jim
