With a team of me, James Buckley and Chris Oldfield and the forecast changing all week, we were unsure if we would get to the north facing crag, Cloggy. Thursday evening it was decided (heavy rain from late Friday night and all day Saturday forecast) that it would be best to head to Gogarth on Friday to gain the most climbing out the best day.
At 5am we left Manchester and at 8.30am abseiled into Concrete Dream HVS 5B. The final pitch sharing the Dream of White Horse’s so a part Hard rock route. Topped out about 11.30am then hiked round to The Strand E2 5B (Extreme rock route!). James and I both wanted the first lead, I picked the short straw. James got first lead in, a good, clean on-sight then I lead with pre-placed gear and brought Chris up.
Now for the spicy bit! Low tide was at 16:30 and the only access along was a sea traverse. We went to have a punt at the Big Groove (E3 5C) a hard rock route. The first pitch shares Pentathol HVS 5B which James led. Then at around 6pmish, I attempted the crux pitch, made a few moves and clipped an old sling feeling exposed with a potential fall into unsafe ground. Half way up the cliff, with high tide and the night closing in, I down climbed and tried to get back onto Pentathol, avoiding a nest of cormorants but ended up off route and took a little whipper! We got back on route, and topped out nearly 22:30 just before the rain and drove to Llanberis to camp.
Saturday and we woke to rain, which stayed all day, so it was a day at Pete’s eats. At 17:00, when it finally stop raining, we climbed on the slate in the mines and looked at the Quarryman route… Wow! Climbed Seamstress VS 4C lead then top roped Seams (the same E1 5B) and My Halo (E7 6B).
Sunday was more rain so we headed to Helsby on the way back for some single pitch sandstone. Chris lead Flake Crack (HVS 5A). I lead Eliminator 1 (E1 5B) and James led Green Teeth Groove (HS 4A)… all fun routes to end the weekend on.
Friday was the big day and a real adventure, Saturday and Sunday was limited by the weather but yet managed to get out climbing and make the most of it.
Great weekend and climbing,
Smiffy
