With warm weather almost guaranteed (in November) and a huge choice of crags to climb at, many just a few minutes (or seconds!) to walk to from the car, Costa Blanca promised a lot.
The trip also had a knowledgeable insider, as Andrew had been there for a week before we arrived. Smokey Dave (aka El Presidente), travelling with Marion, was the first to join Andrew on Sunday evening, and was slightly alarmed when Andrew announced that he had to upgrade the hire car at the weekend as the previous one would have got grounded on the road up to Sella! Andrew had already prepared a chicken spag bol, which was much appreciated. The Orange House is run much like a hostel, but with helpful and friendly staff who know their climbing too.
So, Monday, Smokey Dave’s birthday, was Sella day. Andrew showed Sella off like a proud father, and Dave got to lead his first Sport routes outdoors before the expected rain came (the only rain of the week), so that gave a good excuse to head off to the Carrefour supermarket (the size of a small town) for food ‘n’ drink – although it was our first visit to the highly recommended Oh La La restaurant that night, followed by fantastic chocolate birthday cake! Maria and Michael and Tree Surgeon Dave also arrived on Monday evening, so there would be 5 climbers on Tuesday.
Tuesday was another Sella day, as the others hadn’t seen it yet and there’s so much to have a go at. Andrew pointed to his “6c project” (like a proud father) and Smokey Dave lead some 4s and top-roped some grade 5s to get used to the steep ground. The others were ticking off 6a and above with great regularity, and the day was a great success.
Wednesday was a rest day for many, but not Andrew and Tree Surgeon Dave who thought it would be nice to climb a Top 50 trad climb called Diedros Magicos, a f6a (or E1 5b/c in UK money) multi-pitch monster of a route on the Puig de Campana. They left before everyone else was up, and a good job too as they only just made it to safety as it got dark – having forgotten one head torch and leaving the other in the car! Perhaps more remarkable was the fact that they survived the 350m+ of climbing and abbing off, on just 500ml of water and a banana. The other great thing about this was that you can see the Puig clearly from the Orange House, so the others were able to follow progress using binoculars.
It was about this time that TS Dave noticed that nearly all the routes he had done so far had a description which included the phrase “make a devious move…”. A new nickname was born – Devious Dave!
A new venue was needed for Thursday, so the two Daves, Maria and Michael headed up to Val de Guadar (Echo Valley) while Andrew went to fetch Keith from the Airport, to join later. We chose Echo 1.5 for its selection of climbs from grade 3 to 6b and all very near the car. Here, Smokey led his first grade 5s and top roped 6a and 6a+ (after a couple of attempts) after Devious had led them, while Michael strolled up a 6b and Maria followed. Smokey to Devious – “what do you think my chances of getting up that are?”. Devious to Smokey – “none at all unless you at least have a go!”. Point taken. Andrew then arrived with Keith in tow, much to Smokey’s delight as Keith wanted to start at the low grades and Smokey was only too glad to share the experience.
Friday meant a trip to the seaside – Sierra de Toix, which has an astonishing 80+ starred routes between grade 5 and 6a+, and many more either side of this. After an epic walk in (we lost the path, and Smokey lost his feet when a huge chunk of karst gave way) we all did a massive free-fall abseil to do Magical Mystery Tour, a grade f5 Top 50 multi-pitch, with massive exposure. Andrew led Keith, Devious led Smokey, and Michael led Maria. Smokey was attempting to win the “most sustained show of fear” award at one point, but everyone got up it without incident. This wasn’t enough for Andrew and Devious though, as they then abseiled through a hole/rock arch into a cave 50m below where the easiest escape out was the route Parle at f6a+. Able to see the last pitch clearly from above, Smokey was rather glad he hadn’t “just had a go”. We returned to Oh La La in Finestrat for an end-of-trip meal (before Smokey left) and we ate some amazing pizzas.
On Saturday, Andrew took Smokey to the Airport, battered and sore and climbing needs slaked for a while at least, and then went on to the pretty tourist village of Guadalest to meet the others. An unlikely drive down a steep hairpin track led to the base of the crags, right in the middle of the village and below the castle on top. While Andrew and Keith went at some pumpy 3s and 4s, Maria achieved her aim of leading f6a, and Michael and Devious Dave worked on a powerful f7a. Andrew then went onto the main cliff and led a strangely-graded f5c+.
Maria and Michael departed very early on Sunday, leaving Devious Dave, Andrew, Keith and Marion to visit the crags of Marin, 30 minutes north of the airport, before flying home. Dave led two f6b roof problems on what was the hottest day of our stay in Spain. What a way to finish!
We all agreed that this was a brilliant trip, and thanks go to Maria for setting it up. The climbing in Costa Blanca is fantastic and varied, with both trad and sport, from single pitch up to huge multi-pitch routes. There is something for everyone and the weather in our winter is amazing. We can’t wait to get back.
