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February 10, 2016 Comments Off on Smiffy’s Tremadog Madness Trip Reports

Smiffy’s Tremadog Madness

It is with great pleasure, we kick start the Summer season with some amazing climbing at a great crag!!

With heavy snow in the Peak, on my way to collect James from Manchester, and rain en route, we were worried of a wash out!

We were in luck! Arrived 15.00, dry, mild and sunny so James and I warmed up on Merlin Direct (HVS 5A) 50 m, 2 pitches. Then jumped on The plum (E1 5B,) 50m, 2 pitches to top out at dusk.

Walked back to Eric’s Cafe/Camp where we met Will, Andrew & Keith. Andrew and Keith ticked Hail BeBe, a 4 pitch VD and Christmas Curry, a 75m 4 pitch Severe.

With the HVS 5A & E1 5B out the way and looking strong, we woke up on Saturday to a dry, chilly day after an evening of rain,  but dry rock! So we were left with the Spicy (adjective) Vector! A Joe Brown, Hard Rock route, E2 5C,  75m, 4 pitches.

Will not having climbed yet, took the first pitch in good style. I took the second pitch, ‘the Ochre Slab’ section… an amazing pitch and I loved it! James took the third pitch,  with gear running thin, and having to back climb and swap runners to protect the tricky lay-back. Great effort for pushing through! Will finished up the forth pitch. The 3 Amigos worked well together and got a very memorable route in the bag! After Vector, we bagged a nice E1 5b 2-pitch route, Grim Wall Direct.

Kieth and Andrew ticked off Bramble Buttress that day, a great VDiff, 3-pitch, arete climb. The 3 amigos did that on Sunday morning, as it was very wet that day; a true, Welsh, Jim McCall experience.

Got to see and chat to some guys on Strawberries, which added to the trip experience! I hope everyone enjoyed it as much as I did! Amazing climbing at Tremadog… I will return!

Photos posted, I hope you enjoy them!

Dave Smith

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