Imagine this – a Fred-Beckey-style dirtbag Scandinavian climbing road trip, accompanied by
the soundtrack from Guardians of the Galaxy. Here are the headlines. If you’re with us on a
trip soon, we’ll bore you to death with the details of our trip of the century.
Fred-Beckey-style: Several of the Danish BMSCMC went to see Dirtbag – The Legend of
Fred Beckey* when it visited København. Our only planned sleeps were the two nights at the
DBKK hut at Kullaberg. In the end, we also had two nights sleeping under the stars and one
in the hut below Galdhøpiggen. Thanks also to Brynna and Colin for welcoming Jim and
Andrew into their home at unsocial hours. (*Trailer: http://dirtbagmovie.com/)
Scandinavian climbing road trip: Starting in København, Michael drove us across The Bridge
and up through Sweden into Norway – an amazing 5-hour drive by him. This put us within
reach of the Jotunheimen. We’d planned to bivvy out, but it was raining when we arrived and
there was a cancellation at the hut … well, what can you do? Despite a leisurely start the next
day we were the first across the Styggebrean glacier and topped out in about two-and-a-half
hours. From Galdhøpiggen (2469m, highest mountain in Northern Europe, PD), we traversed
the ridge (and back) to take in Keilhaus Topp (2355m) and Svellnose (2272m) before
returning across the glacier. We’d lined up a climb onto another peak for the following day,
but the poor forecast persuaded us to move on. By evening, we were back north of Oslo. It
was not a good night, with us settling at our third choice bivvy spot in the early hours (it’s a
long story!). By 8am, we were on the grey granite sport climbs at Kolsås, north-west of Oslo.
This was Oslo’s first crag to be developed, and the climbing was steep and well-bolted. It’s
an excellent crag and we will return. In the afternoon, we headed back into Sweden and to the
trad climbing paradise that is Kullaberg. What a great place to be, with views across the
water to Denmark, and kayaks and sailing boats passing by in the sunshine. After a better
night’s sleep, we climbed at Carstens Ränne on our first day and at K2 on the second. The
golden granite was a delight to climb on. Michael’s leading developed to a high standard over
the week, culminating in an impressive lead of Den Lille Skorsten (n4, VS 4c) at K2.
Back in København, we had a great night out with BMSCMC members with an early flight
home the next morning. But … the flight was cancelled, so we went climbing indoors
instead. In all, we drove 2400 km across Scandinavia, through three countries with alpine,
sport, trad and plastic – that was one hell of a road trip.
Guardians of the Galaxy soundtrack? You had to be there.
Sun is shinin’ in the sky
There ain’t a cloud in sight
It’s stopped rainin’ everybody’s in a play
And don’t you know
It’s a eautiful new day, hey hey
